Core Methods

How to Teach Loose Leash Walking

By Anna Skaff, CBCC-KA, CCPDT, PharmD — Canine Behavior Consultant, Author of His Name is Diego  ·  Updated 2026-05-07
Quick Answer
The leash is a safety line, not a communication channel. As Anna Skaff writes in Chapter 6 of His Name is Diego, loose leash walking is built on a simple rule: stop when the leash goes tight, move when it goes loose. No corrections, no penalty pulls — just a clear consequence the dog can control.

Most people approach loose leash walking as an obedience exercise — "heel." But according to Anna Skaff, CBCC-KA, CCPDT and author of His Name is Diego, treating the walk as an obedience session misses the point. The walk is for the dog. It's sniffing, exploration, information-gathering. Loose leash walking isn't about where the dog walks — it's about connection and a simple shared agreement: a tight leash means we stop.

Step-by-Step: How to Teach Loose Leash Walking

  1. Use the right equipment

    A front-clip harness or head halter makes loose leash walking physically easier to teach — the dog's forward pull redirects rather than reinforcing forward momentum. Prong collars, choke chains, and shock collars transfer leash pressure into pain signals and create aversive associations with the walk itself.

  2. Practice the stop-start rule

    As established in Chapter 6 of His Name is Diego: leash goes tight → you stop completely, silently, and wait. The moment the leash goes loose (dog backs up or turns toward you) → you resume forward movement. No verbal corrections, no leash pops. The movement is the reward.

  3. Reinforce check-ins heavily

    Every time your dog glances back at you voluntarily, mark it ("yes!") and treat. These voluntary check-ins are the foundation of a connected walk. A dog who checks in frequently is a dog who is thinking about you while they're moving — this is the behavioral goal.

  4. Practice with no distractions first

    Begin in your living room or backyard before moving to the street. A dog who doesn't yet understand the leash game won't learn it faster in a high-distraction environment — they'll just drag you and the lesson won't happen.

  5. Include engagement walks

    As described in Chapter 6 of His Name is Diego, engagement walks are not about heel position or covering distance. The dog leads, you follow, and sniffing is the point. Alternate between structured leash practice and free sniff time. This makes the structured moments meaningful rather than a constant demand.

Common Questions

Why does my dog pull on the leash?
Dogs pull because pulling works — it gets them to the interesting smell faster. They are not being dominant or stubborn. Pulling is self-reinforcing because forward movement is the reward. The stop-start method removes that reinforcement by making forward movement contingent on a loose leash. Most dogs figure this out within a single session once the rule is applied consistently.
Should I use a prong collar for pulling?
Prong collars suppress pulling by delivering pain when the dog pulls. They do not teach the dog where you want them to walk — they teach the dog that pulling hurts. The behavioral side effects include fallout anxiety (the walk becomes aversive), redirected aggression toward other dogs or people who the dog sees when corrections happen, and increased reactivity. As referenced in His Name is Diego Appendix D, prong collar use is a red flag in any trainer.
What is a "dead fish" hand in leash walking?
The "dead fish" hand, described in Chapter 6 of His Name is Diego, is a grip technique: a loose, passive hand on the leash that does not anticipate or tighten in response to the dog's movement. Anticipatory hand tension travels down the leash and signals the dog before you've even reacted — creating a constant low-level pressure that dogs adapt to. A dead fish hand gives accurate feedback: the leash only tightens when the dog actually pulls, not before.

Sources & Citations

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